Day - 8.
Date: 22nd August 2014
Route: Leh to Turtuk
Distance covered: 241 kms.
We left early morning for Nubra Valley. We were quite excited about going to Turtuk as this was the northern most village of India and also because we were going to conquer the Khardung La which is the highest motorable road. And though Wikipedia says otherwise, we choose to believe what's written on the board. So we call it the highest. It is just 49 kms from Leh and yet it took us 2 1/2 hrs to reach Khardung La Top. The road again is absolutely great except for a 10 km patch across the top which is full of gravel. But it is a very wide road and BRO has done a great job. What I realised is that there is a constant sliding of the mountainside on to the road and I guess that's the reason, the road is destroyed. The BRO is constantly working on it to have it the best shape possible.
The view through the entire ghat is amazing and as you ascend, you can start seeing the whole of Leh spread in front of you. You can see the Shanti Stupa right uptil you reach the top. We clicked photos of us conquering the pass. Then we pushed on. We descended and had our breakfast at North Pullu. We then passed the Khardung village, Khalasar and then we had the first view of the Shayok river. Shayok in the local language means 'Death'. I don't know what made them name this beautiful river with such a name. Yes the river was flowing wild and was muddy as it was carrying a lot of mud with it. But it is a sight to behold.
We started getting the views of the Nubra valley and I just could not stop clicking pictures. The Shayok passing through the valley with barren mountains (desert) on both the sides and a lush green valley. Amazing. There were patches of greens along the flow of small streams. It appeared as if someone has poured green colour down the mountains and it has found its way to the river. One has got to see it. I don't know whether pictures can do justice to this art of nature.
We bypassed Diskit & Hunder where we could see the famous Sand dunes. We decided to visit these on our return journey.
It rained in patches and the sky was filled with various cloud formations. The clouds and the mountains and the valley and the beautiful road. It is a photographers heaven. We did not have the luxury of time with us, hence we flowed on. The Shayok joined us on our onward journey to Turtuk and did not leave us alone.
We took a break for some refreshment at Partapur.
Further on the road became more isolated with lesser and lesser habitation but with increasing beauty. There are colours of all kinds on the mountains. At one moment you can see mountains of gravel and sand and the next one is stone, the next has brick red colour, and the next green. Some stones are shiny and some like polished round stones. It is simply amazing. I just could not understand whether I should keep watching them click them or what.
We passed Skuru & Changmar. We were waved down by a local and we offered him a lift. We got to know a lot about the locals and the place from this guy. His name was Shamshad Ali. He is a labourer and stays at Bodang. He told us that the winters are very bad and everything is shut off and it snows heavily. Yet our army is there to protect our frontiers. He told us about the local grain (Bugwheat) and the special bread they make out of it which is used for breakfast (Kisir). He also told us about stories of families torn apart by the war. How some villages were captured by Pakistan in the 1965 war and how we took them back in 1971. There are still brothers, fathers, parents, husbands on both sides of LOC.
We left him at Bodang. We saw an ambulance of the PHC at Turtuk and I was happy to find a functional PHC at such a remote location. Later our village guide confirmed that there were doctors at the PHC and it was functional.
We then passed Chalunka which is a small village on the banks on Shayok and on a hillock. There were some children playing football on a playground on the other side.
Beyond this was Turtuk and just before we reached Turtuk, we were met by a beautiful waterfall. We stopped to click snaps.
We reached Turtuk and checked in at 'Turtuk Holiday Camps' which was a nice little place at the end of the road passing through the village. It had self contained tents and the guy had done some great landscaping. There was a garden and a small water body passing through the camp. There was even arrangement for Camp fire.
We freshened up and took a guide to show us around the village. The countryside was beautiful with wheat plantations and Buckwheat plantation. There were apple and peach trees laden with fruit. There were children playing and asking for photo clicks. We were able to pluck fresh apples and peaches with the permission of the villagers and have them. It was delicious. The fruit that we get in the market here is nowhere near. I don't think I will be able to eat peaches now purchased from the market. The fruit was so juicy and tasty.
We crossed a swinging wooden bridge on a stream. There was an old mosque which was entirely made of wood. We went to the top of the village where there was a monastery. The whole of Turtuk village could be seen from there with the Shayok in the background. We could even see the LOC and the K2. What an amazing experience!
We returned to find others having come to the camp site and we sat talking and sharing experiences.
Our friends gave me tips on photography and I am already getting excited.
We asked the camp guys to make Kisir for us for dinner and they obliged. Kisir with the local raitha and chutney were quite delicious. Later it was time for camp fire.
Date: 22nd August 2014
Route: Leh to Turtuk
Distance covered: 241 kms.
We left early morning for Nubra Valley. We were quite excited about going to Turtuk as this was the northern most village of India and also because we were going to conquer the Khardung La which is the highest motorable road. And though Wikipedia says otherwise, we choose to believe what's written on the board. So we call it the highest. It is just 49 kms from Leh and yet it took us 2 1/2 hrs to reach Khardung La Top. The road again is absolutely great except for a 10 km patch across the top which is full of gravel. But it is a very wide road and BRO has done a great job. What I realised is that there is a constant sliding of the mountainside on to the road and I guess that's the reason, the road is destroyed. The BRO is constantly working on it to have it the best shape possible.
The view through the entire ghat is amazing and as you ascend, you can start seeing the whole of Leh spread in front of you. You can see the Shanti Stupa right uptil you reach the top. We clicked photos of us conquering the pass. Then we pushed on. We descended and had our breakfast at North Pullu. We then passed the Khardung village, Khalasar and then we had the first view of the Shayok river. Shayok in the local language means 'Death'. I don't know what made them name this beautiful river with such a name. Yes the river was flowing wild and was muddy as it was carrying a lot of mud with it. But it is a sight to behold.
We started getting the views of the Nubra valley and I just could not stop clicking pictures. The Shayok passing through the valley with barren mountains (desert) on both the sides and a lush green valley. Amazing. There were patches of greens along the flow of small streams. It appeared as if someone has poured green colour down the mountains and it has found its way to the river. One has got to see it. I don't know whether pictures can do justice to this art of nature.
We bypassed Diskit & Hunder where we could see the famous Sand dunes. We decided to visit these on our return journey.
It rained in patches and the sky was filled with various cloud formations. The clouds and the mountains and the valley and the beautiful road. It is a photographers heaven. We did not have the luxury of time with us, hence we flowed on. The Shayok joined us on our onward journey to Turtuk and did not leave us alone.
We took a break for some refreshment at Partapur.
Further on the road became more isolated with lesser and lesser habitation but with increasing beauty. There are colours of all kinds on the mountains. At one moment you can see mountains of gravel and sand and the next one is stone, the next has brick red colour, and the next green. Some stones are shiny and some like polished round stones. It is simply amazing. I just could not understand whether I should keep watching them click them or what.
We passed Skuru & Changmar. We were waved down by a local and we offered him a lift. We got to know a lot about the locals and the place from this guy. His name was Shamshad Ali. He is a labourer and stays at Bodang. He told us that the winters are very bad and everything is shut off and it snows heavily. Yet our army is there to protect our frontiers. He told us about the local grain (Bugwheat) and the special bread they make out of it which is used for breakfast (Kisir). He also told us about stories of families torn apart by the war. How some villages were captured by Pakistan in the 1965 war and how we took them back in 1971. There are still brothers, fathers, parents, husbands on both sides of LOC.
We left him at Bodang. We saw an ambulance of the PHC at Turtuk and I was happy to find a functional PHC at such a remote location. Later our village guide confirmed that there were doctors at the PHC and it was functional.
We then passed Chalunka which is a small village on the banks on Shayok and on a hillock. There were some children playing football on a playground on the other side.
Beyond this was Turtuk and just before we reached Turtuk, we were met by a beautiful waterfall. We stopped to click snaps.
We reached Turtuk and checked in at 'Turtuk Holiday Camps' which was a nice little place at the end of the road passing through the village. It had self contained tents and the guy had done some great landscaping. There was a garden and a small water body passing through the camp. There was even arrangement for Camp fire.
We freshened up and took a guide to show us around the village. The countryside was beautiful with wheat plantations and Buckwheat plantation. There were apple and peach trees laden with fruit. There were children playing and asking for photo clicks. We were able to pluck fresh apples and peaches with the permission of the villagers and have them. It was delicious. The fruit that we get in the market here is nowhere near. I don't think I will be able to eat peaches now purchased from the market. The fruit was so juicy and tasty.
We crossed a swinging wooden bridge on a stream. There was an old mosque which was entirely made of wood. We went to the top of the village where there was a monastery. The whole of Turtuk village could be seen from there with the Shayok in the background. We could even see the LOC and the K2. What an amazing experience!
We returned to find others having come to the camp site and we sat talking and sharing experiences.
Our friends gave me tips on photography and I am already getting excited.
We asked the camp guys to make Kisir for us for dinner and they obliged. Kisir with the local raitha and chutney were quite delicious. Later it was time for camp fire.
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| Beautiful morning at Khardung La |
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| The Road up the Pass and Leh below in the valley |
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| Khardung La conquered |
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| The road beyond Khardung La |
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